Exploring the Gateway to the Coast

Begin your Amalfi Coast adventure in Sorrento, a charming town perched on cliffs overlooking the Bay of Naples. While technically not part of the Amalfi Coast proper, Sorrento serves as an excellent base and introduction to the region’s beauty and culture.

Sorrento’s Characteristics: This elegant resort town has been welcoming visitors since ancient Roman times. Its historic center features narrow medieval streets, Renaissance and Baroque churches, and beautiful piazzas filled with cafés and artisan shops. The town is famous for its production of limoncello, inlaid woodwork (intarsio), and stunning views across the bay to Mount Vesuvius and the island of Capri.

Morning: After arriving and settling into your accommodation, explore Piazza Tasso, the town’s main square named after the poet Torquato Tasso who was born here in 1544. Visit the Cathedral of Sorrento with its beautiful facade and intricate inlaid woodwork. Wander through the historic center’s atmospheric streets, stopping at Via San Cesareo, the main shopping street lined with boutiques selling local products, ceramics, and traditional crafts.

Afternoon: Head to Marina Grande, Sorrento’s ancient fishing village, where colorful boats bob in the small harbor and excellent seafood restaurants line the beach. The walk down offers spectacular views, and this authentic neighborhood provides a glimpse into local life. Alternatively, visit the Museo Correale di Terranova, which houses an impressive collection of decorative arts, paintings, and archaeological finds.

Evening: Enjoy sunset from Villa Comunale Park, which offers panoramic views over the Bay of Naples. Have dinner at a local trattoria, trying regional specialties like gnocchi alla sorrentina (potato dumplings with tomato sauce and mozzarella) or fresh catch of the day. End your evening with a passeggiata (leisurely stroll) through the illuminated streets and perhaps your first taste of authentic limoncello.

Vertical Village Paradise

Positano is the most photographed and arguably the most beautiful town on the Amalfi Coast. Its pastel-colored houses cascade down the cliffside in a cascade of pink, peach, yellow, and terracotta, creating an almost dreamlike vertical village that has inspired artists, writers, and filmmakers for generations.

Positano’s Characteristics: This former fishing village transformed into a fashionable resort after American author John Steinbeck wrote about its beauty in 1953. The town is built almost entirely on steep slopes, with most streets being staircases connecting different levels. Positano is renowned for its handmade linen clothing and leather sandals, colorful majolica ceramics, and elegant beach clubs. The architecture features domed churches, bougainvillea-draped terraces, and stunning villas hidden among the hillsides.

Morning: Take the SITA bus from Sorrento along the famous Amalfi Drive (SS163), one of the world’s most scenic coastal roads. The journey itself is spectacular, with hairpin turns revealing breathtaking vistas at every corner. Arrive in Positano and begin exploring from the top, working your way down through the maze of staircases and boutique-lined pathways. Visit the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, with its distinctive majolica-tiled dome and Byzantine Black Madonna icon.

Afternoon: Descend to Spiaggia Grande, the main beach with its dark volcanic sand and colorful boats. Relax at one of the beach clubs or the free public section. For a more secluded experience, take a water taxi or hike the path to Fornillo Beach, a smaller and quieter alternative. Browse the many boutiques selling “Moda Positano” – the town’s signature casual-chic linen clothing style that became famous in the 1960s.

Evening: As the day-trippers depart, Positano reveals its more intimate character. Dine at one of the cliffside restaurants, enjoying fresh seafood and local wines while watching the lights twinkle across the hillside. The sunset view from upper Positano is particularly magical. Consider staying overnight to experience the town’s romantic evening atmosphere and watch the village illuminate like a cascade of stars.

Where History Meets the Sea

Amalfi, the town that gives its name to the entire coast, was once a powerful maritime republic that rivaled Venice in wealth and influence. Today, it’s a vibrant town where grand history blends seamlessly with everyday Italian life.

Amalfi’s Characteristics: The town sits in a narrow valley between dramatic cliffs and the sea, with its historic center clustered around the impressive cathedral square. Despite its small size, Amalfi boasts an extraordinary historical legacy – it was here that the Tavole Amalfitane (Amalfi Tables), one of the earliest maritime legal codes, was created in the 11th century. The town’s architecture reflects its illustrious past, with Arab-Norman influences visible in many buildings. Today, Amalfi is known for its production of handmade paper using medieval techniques, its famous lemons (sfusato amalfitano), and as a center for exploring the coast.

Morning: Begin at Piazza del Duomo, dominated by the magnificent Cathedral of Sant’Andrea. This 9th-century cathedral showcases a stunning facade with Arab-Norman architectural elements, a striped campanile (bell tower), and a dramatic flight of steps. Inside, admire the baroque decorations and visit the Cloister of Paradise (Chiostro del Paradiso), a peaceful 13th-century courtyard with elegant Moorish arches and ancient sarcophagi. The crypt houses the relics of St. Andrew the Apostle.

Afternoon: Explore the Valle dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills), where you can see the ruins of ancient paper mills and learn about Amalfi’s traditional papermaking industry at the Museum of Paper (Museo della Carta). This unique museum is housed in a restored paper mill and demonstrates the medieval techniques still used to produce Amalfi’s famous handmade paper. Stroll along the waterfront promenade and visit the Arsenal of the Maritime Republic, a rare example of medieval shipyard architecture.

Evening: Browse the shops along Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi and Via Capuano for ceramics, limoncello, and local products. Enjoy aperitivo at a café in the main square, watching locals and tourists mingle as the cathedral’s bells ring. For dinner, try local specialties like scialatielli ai frutti di mare (a fresh pasta with seafood) or anchovy-based dishes that reflect the town’s fishing heritage.

Gardens in the Sky

Perched 365 meters above the sea, Ravello is often called the “City of Music” and offers a completely different perspective on the Amalfi Coast. This refined hilltop town has attracted artists, musicians, and writers for centuries with its tranquil atmosphere and spectacular views.

Ravello’s Characteristics: Unlike the beach-focused towns below, Ravello is characterized by its elegant villas, magnificent gardens, and panoramic terraces that seem to float above the Mediterranean. The town has a long history as a retreat for artists and intellectuals – Richard Wagner was inspired here to compose part of Parsifal, and writers from D.H. Lawrence to Gore Vidal have called Ravello home. Today, the town is famous for its summer music festival, held in the gardens of Villa Rufolo, and for its peaceful, sophisticated atmosphere that feels worlds away from the bustle of the coastal towns below.

Morning: Take a bus from Amalfi up the winding mountain road to Ravello. Begin at Villa Rufolo, a 13th-century villa with spectacular terraced gardens overlooking the coast. The gardens inspired Richard Wagner’s description of the magical garden of Klingsor in Parsifal. The villa complex includes a Moorish cloister, a tower with panoramic views, and gardens filled with pine trees, flowers, and marble sculptures. The “Terrace of Infinity” offers one of the most photographed views on the entire coast.

Afternoon: Visit Villa Cimbrone, located at the opposite end of town, reached by a charming 15-minute walk through Ravello’s quiet streets. The villa’s gardens are even more spectacular than Villa Rufolo, featuring marble statues, temples, grottoes, and the famous “Terrace of Infinity” lined with marble busts. The view from here, encompassing the entire Gulf of Salerno, is breathtaking and has been called “the most beautiful view in the world.” Explore the Cathedral of Ravello in Piazza Vescovado, which houses important works of art including a 12th-century pulpit adorned with mosaics.

Evening: Enjoy the sunset from one of Ravello’s garden terraces with an aperitivo. The town has several excellent restaurants, many with terraces offering stunning views. The atmosphere here is more relaxed and refined than the busier coastal towns. If you’re visiting in summer (June-September), check if there’s a concert at the Ravello Festival – attending a performance in the gardens of Villa Rufolo at sunset is an unforgettable experience.

Hidden Gems and Local Traditions

Venture beyond the famous towns to discover Atrani and Minori, two smaller villages that offer a more authentic glimpse of life on the Amalfi Coast, where locals still outnumber tourists and traditions remain strong.

Atrani’s Characteristics: Adjacent to Amalfi, Atrani is Italy’s smallest municipality by area and perhaps the most authentic town on the coast. Its houses are densely packed around a small piazza that opens directly onto a tiny beach. The town served as a residential area for Amalfi’s nobility during the Maritime Republic era, and the Church of San Salvatore de’ Birecto was where the Doges of Amalfi were crowned. Today, Atrani maintains a genuine fishing village atmosphere, with locals gathering in the piazza and traditional festivals celebrated with enthusiasm.

Morning: Walk from Amalfi to Atrani (only 5-10 minutes) through a tunnel or along the coastal path. Explore Piazza Umberto I, the heart of village life, and visit the Church of San Salvatore de’ Birecto with its beautiful bronze doors. Wander the narrow medieval alleys (dragoni) that connect different levels of the village, discovering hidden corners and glimpses of the sea. The Santa Maria Maddalena Church, reached by climbing many steps, offers lovely views over the village and coast.

Minori’s Characteristics: Unlike most Amalfi Coast towns built vertically on cliffs, Minori spreads along a valley, offering more space and a relaxed atmosphere. The town has been a resort since Roman times – a well-preserved 1st-century Roman villa near the seafront proves ancient Romans appreciated this coast’s beauty. Minori is famous among Italians for its pastries, particularly the traditional Delizia al Limone (lemon delight), and for its long beach, the longest on the Amalfi Coast.

Afternoon: Continue to Minori by bus or boat. Visit the Roman Maritime Villa, a beautifully preserved archaeological site with original frescoes and mosaics. Relax on the sandy beach, which is more spacious and less crowded than most coastal beaches. Explore the town’s pleasant promenade and visit the Basilica di Santa Trofimena, which houses relics of the town’s patron saint.

Evening: Minori comes alive in the evening when locals fill the promenade and beach. Stop at Pasticceria Sal De Riso, one of the coast’s most famous pastry shops, for authentic Delizia al Limone and other local sweets. Have dinner at one of the family-run trattorias where you’ll find excellent food at more reasonable prices than the famous towns. The atmosphere is convivial and authentically Italian.

Coastal Treasures Off the Beaten Path

This day takes you to three lesser-known gems that showcase different aspects of the coast’s beauty and character, from quiet fishing villages to dramatic fjord-like inlets.

Praiano’s Characteristics: Spread along the cliffside between Positano and Amalfi, Praiano was the summer residence of the Doges of Amalfi. Unlike Positano’s vertical compactness, Praiano stretches horizontally along the coast, offering spectacular sunset views as it faces west. The town maintains a quiet, authentic atmosphere with two main areas: the upper town around the Church of San Luca and the lower Marina di Praia. Praiano is known for its artisan workshops, particularly coral carvers, and for having some of the coast’s most beautiful sunsets.

Morning: Explore Praiano, starting at the Church of San Luca Evangelista with its beautiful majolica-tiled floor and dome. Walk down to Marina di Praia, a tiny fishing village nestled in a dramatic cove, reached by hundreds of steps or a winding road. This picturesque harbor has a small beach, colorful fishing boats, and excellent seafood restaurants. The setting, with towering cliffs on either side, is particularly photogenic.

Furore’s Characteristics: Known as “the town that doesn’t exist,” Furore is unlike any other on the coast. Rather than being concentrated in one area, its houses are scattered along the steep slopes of a gorge, making it almost invisible from a distance. The town is famous for the Fiordo di Furore, a dramatic natural gorge where a small fjord-like inlet cuts into the cliffs, spanned by a picturesque stone bridge. Every July, the bridge hosts a high diving competition, with athletes plunging 28 meters into the turquoise water below.

Afternoon: Visit Furore, exploring the scattered hamlet and definitely stopping at the Fiordo di Furore. The fjord can be reached by stairs from the bridge, leading down to a tiny beach enclosed by towering cliff walls – one of the coast’s most dramatic settings. The surrounding cliffs have been decorated with colorful murals by local and international artists. Continue to Conca dei Marini, a tiny village perched on a promontory. Visit the Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Grotto), a sea cave where sunlight creates magical emerald-green reflections in the water, with underwater nativity scene visible through the clear water.

Evening: Return to your base, perhaps stopping for dinner in one of the day’s villages. These quieter towns often have wonderful restaurants where you can enjoy fresh seafood and traditional dishes in a more intimate setting, away from tourist crowds.

The Coast from the Sea

Dedicate your final day to seeing the Amalfi Coast from the best possible vantage point – the sea. This perspective reveals hidden grottos, secluded beaches, and dramatic cliffs that cannot be appreciated from land.

Morning and Afternoon: Book a boat tour (available from Positano, Amalfi, or Sorrento) that explores the coastline. The boat journey allows you to appreciate the coast’s dramatic verticality, see the colorful villages from below, and access hidden beaches and sea caves. Most tours include stops for swimming in crystal-clear waters, visits to grottoes like the Grotta dello Smeraldo, and opportunities to see the coast’s spectacular rock formations, sea stacks, and natural arches.

A highlight of many boat tours is circumnavigating Li Galli (The Roosters), three small islands off Positano that, according to legend, were home to the Sirens who tried to lure Odysseus to his doom. The islands are now private but create a dramatic seascape. From the water, you’ll also appreciate the engineering marvel of the coastal towns, understanding how communities built thriving civilizations on these seemingly impossible cliffs.

The boat perspective reveals countless details invisible from above: waterfalls cascading directly into the sea, the layers of terraced lemon groves, hidden villas perched on improbable outcrops, and the true color gradient of the Mediterranean waters from deep blue to bright turquoise near the shore.

Alternative Activities: If you prefer not to spend the entire day on a boat, consider a half-day tour and use the remaining time to revisit your favorite town or explore one you missed. You could also take a day trip to the island of Capri, accessible by ferry from Positano, Amalfi, or Sorrento. Capri offers its own unique beauty with the famous Blue Grotto, the Gardens of Augustus, and the scenic town of Anacapri.

Evening: For your final evening, return to your favorite town or choose a special restaurant you’ve been saving. Many of the coast’s finest dining experiences are found in hotels and restaurants with terraces overlooking the sea. Toast to your week on one of Italy’s most beautiful coasts, savoring the memories of cascading villages, azure waters, fragrant lemon groves, and the warm hospitality of the Amalfi Coast.