Day 1-2: Seville – The Heart of Andalusia

Begin your Andalusian adventure in Seville, the capital city and the cultural epicenter of the region. Seville is a city that seems to exist in a perpetual state of celebration, where the scent of orange blossoms perfumes the air and the sound of castanets clicks through the streets. With a population of approximately 700,000 inhabitants, it’s Spain’s fourth-largest city, yet it maintains an intimate, neighborhood feel that makes visitors feel instantly at home.

The Magnificent Alcázar

Start your exploration at the Real Alcázar, a stunning royal palace that represents one of the finest examples of Mudéjar architecture in existence. This UNESCO World Heritage site was originally developed as a Moorish fort in 913, but its current appearance dates from the Christian reconquest, when King Peter of Castile commissioned its reconstruction in 1364. The palace is a mesmerizing fusion of Islamic and Christian architectural elements, featuring intricate tilework, horseshoe arches, and stunning plasterwork that covers virtually every surface.

The gardens of the Alcázar deserve several hours of exploration on their own. Spanning multiple terraces and featuring fountains, pavilions, and orange groves, these gardens have been cultivated for over a thousand years. The Mercury Pond, surrounded by perfectly manicured hedges and overlooked by a gallery added by King Philip II, offers one of the most photographed views in all of Seville. Film enthusiasts will recognize the Alcázar as a filming location for Game of Thrones, where it stood in for the Water Gardens of Dorne.

Seville Cathedral and La Giralda

No visit to Seville is complete without experiencing the magnificent Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and another UNESCO World Heritage site. Built on the site of a grand mosque after the Christian reconquest in 1248, the cathedral took over a century to complete. Its sheer scale is overwhelming: it covers 11,520 square meters and its nave rises to a height of 42 meters.

The cathedral houses the tomb of Christopher Columbus, whose remains were transferred here in 1898. Four larger-than-life statues representing the kingdoms of Castile, León, Navarre, and Aragon bear his elaborate catafalque on their shoulders. The interior is adorned with masterpieces by artists including Murillo, Goya, and Zurbarán, while the main altarpiece, measuring 20 meters high, is considered the largest in Christianity.

Adjacent to the cathedral stands La Giralda, Seville’s iconic bell tower that has become the symbol of the city. Originally constructed as the minaret of the mosque that once stood on this site, it was built in 1198 during the Almohad dynasty. At 104 meters tall, it was the tallest tower in the world at the time of its construction. Instead of stairs, the tower features a series of ramps that were designed to allow the muezzin to ride a horse to the top. Climbing to the top rewards visitors with spectacular panoramic views across Seville’s terracotta rooftops and winding river.

The Enchanting Barrio de Santa Cruz

Spend your afternoon wandering through the Barrio de Santa Cruz, Seville’s former Jewish quarter. This neighborhood is a labyrinth of narrow, winding streets barely wide enough for two people to pass, opening occasionally into charming plazas adorned with fountains and orange trees. The streets are lined with whitewashed buildings decorated with colorful ceramic tiles and wrought-iron balconies overflowing with geraniums.

The barrio maintains much of its medieval layout, designed intentionally confusing to protect residents from invaders. Today, it’s home to some of Seville’s best tapas bars, hidden courtyards converted into restaurants, and small boutiques selling traditional Andalusian crafts. Don’t miss the Plaza de Doña Elvira, a peaceful square surrounded by orange trees, or the Plaza de Santa Cruz itself, which features a 17th-century iron cross marking the site of the former parish church.

Day 3: Córdoba – The City of Three Cultures

Journey northeast to Córdoba, an easy hour-long train ride from Seville. This ancient city, with a population of around 325,000, was once the largest city in Western Europe and served as the capital of the Islamic Emirate and later the Caliphate of Córdoba. During its 10th-century golden age, Córdoba was a beacon of learning and culture, home to the largest library in the world and a place where Muslim, Jewish, and Christian scholars worked together, creating what historians call the “ornament of the world.”

The Mezquita – A Monument to Religious Harmony

The Great Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, known simply as the Mezquita, stands as one of the most extraordinary buildings in all of Spain and perhaps in the entire Islamic world. Begun in 784 by Abd al-Rahman I and expanded by successive rulers until the 10th century, the mosque was designed to rival the great mosques of Damascus and Jerusalem. When Córdoba fell to Christian forces in 1236, the conquerors were so awed by the mosque’s beauty that they preserved it, simply consecrating it as a church.

Entering the Mezquita is like stepping into a mystical forest of columns. The prayer hall contains 856 columns of jasper, onyx, marble, and granite, supporting double arches of alternating red brick and white stone that create a mesmerizing visual rhythm. The columns were salvaged from Roman and Visigothic buildings, yet they create a unified and harmonious space that seems to extend infinitely in all directions. Light filters through the arches in such a way that the space appears to shimmer and shift as you move through it.

In the 16th century, despite protests from the city council, a Renaissance cathedral nave was constructed in the very center of the mosque, creating one of history’s most controversial architectural additions. While some view it as a destructive act, others see it as a fascinating example of religious and cultural layering. Even King Charles V, who authorized the construction, reportedly said upon seeing the completed cathedral, “You have destroyed something unique to build something commonplace.”

The Historic Jewish Quarter

The Judería of Córdoba is one of the best-preserved medieval Jewish quarters in Spain. Its narrow streets, barely three feet wide in places, were designed to provide shade and cool the neighborhood during Córdoba’s brutal summers. The whitewashed walls are decorated with colorful flowerpots, creating what has become an iconic Andalusian image.

Visit the 14th-century synagogue, one of only three medieval synagogues remaining in Spain. Though small, it features beautiful Mudéjar stucco work with Hebrew inscriptions from the Psalms. After the expulsion of the Jews in 1492, the building served variously as a hospital, a chapel, and even a shoe-makers’ guild hall before being recognized as a national monument in the early 20th century.

The nearby statue of Maimonides, the great Jewish philosopher and physician who was born in Córdoba in 1135, sits in the plaza that bears his name. His bronze figure has been polished to a golden sheen by countless visitors touching it for good luck.

Day 4-5: Granada – The Last Moorish Kingdom

Continue your journey to Granada, nestled at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains. With approximately 235,000 residents, Granada is smaller than Seville but no less captivating. As the last stronghold of Islamic rule in Western Europe, falling to Catholic forces only in 1492, Granada preserves Moorish culture more vividly than anywhere else in Spain. The city’s position, with snow-capped mountains as its backdrop and fertile plains stretching before it, helps explain why the Nasrid sultans fought so desperately to keep this paradise.

The Alhambra – A Palace Like No Other

The Alhambra complex is not merely the highlight of Granada; it stands among the world’s greatest architectural achievements. This vast palace and fortress complex, whose name derives from the Arabic “Al-Qala’a al-Hamra” (The Red Fortress), sprawls across the Sabika hill overlooking the city. Construction began in 1238 under Muhammad I Ibn al-Ahmar, founder of the Nasrid dynasty, and continued for over a century as successive sultans added their own palaces and gardens.

The Nasrid Palaces form the heart of the Alhambra and represent the pinnacle of Islamic architecture in Spain. These interconnected palaces—the Mexuar, the Comares Palace, and the Palace of the Lions—showcase decoration that is breathtaking in its intricacy and mathematical precision. Every surface is covered with arabesques, geometric patterns, and calligraphy proclaiming “There is no victor but God.” The decoration uses no representational imagery, instead creating an abstract beauty that Muslim artists believed came closer to expressing divine perfection.

The Court of the Lions, perhaps the most famous space in the Alhambra, features a central fountain supported by twelve marble lions, surrounded by 124 slender columns that seem too delicate to support the elaborate pavilions they hold. The play of light and shadow across the stucco work creates an ever-changing display throughout the day. Water, always precious in this dry land, flows through channels cut into the marble floors, creating a constant soothing sound and cooling the air.

The Generalife, the summer palace and gardens of the Nasrid emirs, sits on an adjacent hill connected to the Alhambra by a bridge. The name derives from “Jannat al-Arif,” meaning “Garden of the Architect.” These gardens, with their long pools, fountains, and pavilions, embody the Islamic concept of paradise as a garden. The Patio de la Acequia, with its long central pool flanked by flowerbeds and overlooked by pavilions at either end, offers views across to the main palace complex that have inspired countless artists and writers.

The Albaicín – Granada’s Ancient Quarter

The Albaicín, Granada’s old Moorish quarter, tumbles down the hill opposite the Alhambra. This UNESCO World Heritage site preserves its medieval Islamic urban layout, with narrow, twisting streets designed to confuse invaders and provide shade. The whitewashed houses, called “carmenes,” feature high walls that hide interior gardens—a Moorish tradition that values privacy and creates cool, peaceful sanctuaries.

Climbing through the Albaicín’s steep streets is like traveling back in time. You’ll pass centuries-old cisterns, traditional tea houses, and glimpse through doorways into secret gardens. The neighborhood is home to a vibrant community that includes descendants of the original Moorish inhabitants, artists attracted by the bohemian atmosphere, and immigrants from North Africa who have brought new life to traditional crafts and cuisine.

At the top of the Albaicín sits the Mirador de San Nicolás, offering the most famous view in all of Spain: the Alhambra and the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains behind it, seen across a ravine with the city spread below. Arrive before sunset to watch the Alhambra turn golden, then pink, then red as the sun sets, while street musicians play and locals gather to socialize.

Sacromonte – The Gypsy Quarter

Above the Albaicín, Sacromonte clings to a hillside dotted with caves. This has been home to Granada’s Roma community since at least the 15th century, when they fled persecution elsewhere in Europe. These whitewashed caves, far from being primitive, are comfortable homes dug deep into the soft rock of the hillside, maintaining constant temperatures year-round and featuring electricity and modern amenities.

Sacromonte is famous as the birthplace of Granada’s distinctive flamenco style, known as zambra. Unlike Seville’s flamenco, which is more formal and theatrical, Sacromonte’s zambra evolved from Roma wedding celebrations, featuring belly dance-influenced movements and a more intimate, participatory atmosphere. Many caves now serve as tablao venues where families perform for visitors, keeping alive traditions passed down through generations.

Day 6: Ronda – The Dramatic Mountain City

Journey west to Ronda, one of Spain’s most dramatically situated cities. Perched on a clifftop in the Serranía de Ronda mountains, this town of 35,000 inhabitants sits 750 meters above sea level, split in two by the 120-meter deep El Tajo gorge. The views are vertiginous and unforgettable, with whitewashed houses seeming to defy gravity as they cling to the cliff edge.

The Puente Nuevo – Ronda’s Iconic Bridge

The Puente Nuevo (New Bridge), despite its name, was completed in 1793 after forty-two years of construction. This engineering marvel spans the gorge at its narrowest point, rising 98 meters above the Guadalevín River below. The bridge connects Ronda’s old Moorish town (La Ciudad) with the new town (El Mercadillo) that developed after the Christian conquest.

The bridge’s central arch contains a chamber that has served various purposes throughout history: as a prison during the Spanish Civil War, as a bar, and now as an interpretation center detailing the bridge’s construction. The architect, José Martin de Aldehuela, created a structure of remarkable elegance despite its massive scale, incorporating the natural rock into the design so seamlessly that the bridge seems to grow organically from the gorge walls.

Walking across the bridge and looking down into the gorge’s depths is both thrilling and slightly terrifying. For the best photographs and views, descend the pathway to the base of the gorge, where you can appreciate the bridge’s full height and see the remains of ancient mills and the layers of geological history exposed in the cliff faces.

The Birthplace of Modern Bullfighting

Ronda claims to be the birthplace of modern bullfighting as we know it today. The Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda, Ronda’s bullring built in 1785, is one of Spain’s oldest and most beautiful plazas de toros. Unlike older bullrings that were simply open spaces in town squares, Ronda’s bullring was purpose-built with classical proportions and Tuscan columns.

It was here that the Romero dynasty, particularly Pedro Romero (1754-1839), established the rules and techniques of modern bullfighting. Pedro Romero reportedly fought over 5,000 bulls in his career without ever being gored—a record that stands to this day. The attached museum displays antique matador costumes, vintage posters, and explains the evolution of bullfighting from medieval horseback contests to the choreographed art form it became.

Whether or not you approve of bullfighting, the bullring itself is architecturally fascinating, and the views from its upper tiers across the surrounding countryside are spectacular. Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles, both bullfighting aficionados, spent considerable time in Ronda, and Welles’ ashes are partially scattered in the estate of a local bullfighter.

The Arab Baths and Old Town

Ronda preserves Spain’s best-maintained Arab baths, dating from the 13th century when the town was under Islamic rule. The Baños Árabes feature the characteristic horseshoe arches and star-shaped roof openings that allowed steam to escape while creating dramatic patterns of light. The baths, powered by a sophisticated system of waterwheels on the nearby river, showcase the advanced engineering knowledge of Islamic Andalusia.

The old town’s winding streets hide aristocratic mansions, many now converted into boutique hotels, and the Mondragón Palace with its beautiful Renaissance courtyards and gardens. The palace now houses a museum detailing Ronda’s long history, from prehistoric times through the Moorish period to the present. Don’t miss the hanging gardens, which offer stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.

Day 7: Málaga – The Costa del Sol Capital

Conclude your Andalusian journey in Málaga, the region’s second-largest city with a population of around 580,000. Often overlooked by tourists rushing to the beach resorts that line the Costa del Sol, Málaga itself is a dynamic, sophisticated city that successfully blends its ancient past with contemporary culture. As the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, Málaga has embraced its artistic heritage, transforming itself into one of Spain’s most cultured cities.

Historic Center and Cathedral

Málaga’s historic center is a delightful maze of pedestrian streets, traditional tapas bars, and elegant plazas. The cathedral, nicknamed “La Manquita” (the one-armed lady) because its south tower was never completed, dominates the cityscape. Built between 1528 and 1782 on the site of a mosque, the cathedral showcases a mix of Renaissance and Baroque styles. Its interior features one of Spain’s largest and most elaborately carved choir stalls, containing 101 seats adorned with sculptures of saints and biblical scenes.

The cathedral’s rooftop tours, introduced in recent years, offer spectacular views across the city, the port, and the bullring. Walking among the flying buttresses and statues while overlooking the bustling city below provides a unique perspective on both the building’s architecture and Málaga’s urban layout.

The Alcazaba and Gibralfaro

Málaga’s Alcazaba, a palatial fortress built by the Hammudid dynasty in the 11th century, climbs up the hillside just minutes from the city center. This is one of Spain’s best-preserved Moorish fortifications, featuring double walls, defensive towers, and beautiful gardens that would have supplied the garrison during sieges. The palace sections showcase the sophisticated lifestyle of Islamic Andalusia, with courtyards, fountains, and horseshoe arches similar to, though simpler than, those found in Granada’s Alhambra.

A separate castle, the Gibralfaro, crowns the hill above the Alcazaba. Built in the 14th century to house troops and protect the Alcazaba, this fortress offers the best panoramic views of Málaga, encompassing the bullring, the port, the city spread across the coastal plain, and the Mediterranean beyond. The walk between the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro passes through Mediterranean gardens and offers numerous photo opportunities.

Picasso Museum and Cultural Renaissance

The Museo Picasso Málaga, housed in a beautifully restored 16th-century palace, displays over 200 works donated by the artist’s daughter-in-law and grandson. The collection spans Picasso’s entire career, from his academic early works through his Blue Period, Cubism, and late experimental pieces. Even visitors who think they don’t appreciate Picasso’s later work often find themselves captivated by seeing the progression of his artistic evolution in one place.

Málaga’s cultural renaissance extends beyond Picasso. The Centre Pompidou Málaga, the first branch of Paris’s famous museum outside France, brings rotating exhibitions of modern and contemporary art to this glass cube on the waterfront. The Russian Museum, a branch of St. Petersburg’s collection, showcases Russian art from orthodox icons to Soviet-era masterpieces. The city has also revitalized its port area, creating a pedestrian-friendly waterfront with gardens, restaurants, and cultural spaces.

Beach Life and Gastronomy

Málaga is unique among major Spanish cities in having beaches right in the city center. The Playa de la Malagueta stretches for over a kilometer, offering a place to relax, swim, or enjoy fresh seafood at one of the chiringuitos (beach restaurants) that line the shore. The promenade, shaded by palm trees, is perfect for an evening stroll as locals emerge for their paseo.

The city’s food scene deserves special attention. Beyond typical tapas, Málaga specializes in fresh seafood—try espetos de sardinas (sardines skewered and grilled over an olive wood fire), a local specialty that originated with fishermen cooking their catch on the beach. The area around the Mercado Central de Atarazanas, housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century building with Moorish-style stained glass, offers numerous excellent tapas bars and restaurants.