Day 1-2: Buenos Aires – The Paris of South America

Your Argentine adventure begins in Buenos Aires, one of South America’s most captivating capitals. Known as the “Paris of South America” for its grand European architecture, wide boulevards, and sophisticated café culture, Buenos Aires is a city that demands at least two full days of exploration.

City Characteristics

Buenos Aires is home to nearly 3 million people in the city proper and over 15 million in the greater metropolitan area, making it one of the largest cities in the Americas. Built on the western shore of the Río de la Plata estuary, the city sprawls across the flat pampas grasslands, its grid of streets interrupted by occasional diagonal avenues that create dramatic perspectives and unexpected vistas.

The city’s architecture tells the story of Argentina’s golden age in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when the country was among the world’s wealthiest nations. Grand Parisian-style buildings, ornate theaters, and elegant parks reflect this era of prosperity and European immigration. Yet Buenos Aires is far from being a museum piece—it’s a vibrant, contemporary metropolis where cutting-edge design shares space with belle époque grandeur, where traditional steakhouses coexist with innovative fusion restaurants, and where tango dancers perform on cobblestone streets while electronic music pounds from trendy nightclubs.

The climate is temperate, with hot, humid summers (December-February) and mild winters (June-August). Porteños, as Buenos Aires residents are called, are known for their warmth, their late dining hours (dinner rarely starts before 10 PM), and their passionate opinions about everything from football to politics. The city never seems to sleep—restaurants bustle at midnight, theaters start shows at 10 PM, and some neighborhoods don’t come alive until well after dark.

Day 1: Historic Center and Cultural Immersion

Begin your exploration in Plaza de Mayo, the city’s historic heart and the site of many pivotal moments in Argentine history. The pink Casa Rosada presidential palace dominates the square—it was from this building’s balcony that Eva Perón addressed the masses, and where the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo still march every Thursday to remember their disappeared children from the military dictatorship era.

Walk down Avenida de Mayo toward Congress, admiring the Spanish-inspired architecture and stopping at the historic Café Tortoni, Buenos Aires’ oldest café, founded in 1858. This institution, with its marble tables, stained glass, and dark wood paneling, has hosted everyone from Jorge Luis Borges to Albert Einstein. Order a cortado and a slice of dulce de leche cake while absorbing the atmosphere.

Visit the magnificent Teatro Colón, one of the world’s finest opera houses. Guided tours take you through this 1908 architectural masterpiece, with its horseshoe-shaped auditorium, perfect acoustics, and lavish decorations. The theater has hosted Pavarotti, Toscanini, and Maria Callas, and continues to present world-class performances.

In the afternoon, explore San Telmo, the city’s oldest neighborhood. This bohemian barrio is filled with antique shops, art galleries, and tango bars. Its cobblestone streets and colonial buildings create an intimate, village-like atmosphere. On Sundays, Plaza Dorrego hosts a famous antiques market where you can browse vintage treasures and watch impromptu tango performances.

As evening falls, head to Puerto Madero, the renovated port district with its converted warehouses now housing upscale restaurants and lofts. The Puente de la Mujer, a striking modern footbridge, has become an iconic symbol of contemporary Buenos Aires. Dine at one of the waterfront restaurants, enjoying Argentine beef while watching the sunset over the renovated docks.

Day 2: Neighborhoods and Tango

Start your day in Recoleta, Buenos Aires’ most elegant neighborhood. Visit the famous Recoleta Cemetery, where elaborate mausoleums house Argentina’s elite, including Eva Perón. The cemetery is like a city of the dead, with wide avenues lined with ornate tombs representing every architectural style imaginable. It’s beautiful, haunting, and uniquely porteño.

Nearby, the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes houses an excellent collection of Argentine and international art, including works by Goya, Rembrandt, and El Greco, as well as extensive Argentine artists. Admission is free, making it an accessible cultural experience.

Walk through Recoleta’s tree-lined streets, admiring the French-style mansions and stopping at one of the neighborhood’s elegant cafés. The weekend craft fair in Plaza Francia showcases local artisans’ work—leather goods, mate gourds, jewelry, and art.

In the afternoon, take a taxi to La Boca, the colorful working-class neighborhood famous for its brightly painted houses on Caminito street. This pedestrian street museum showcases the neighborhood’s Italian immigrant heritage through its vibrant colors, tango dancers, and street artists. While touristy, Caminito captures something essential about Buenos Aires’ immigrant roots and working-class passion.

La Boca is also home to La Bombonera, Boca Juniors’ football stadium. If there’s a match during your visit, experiencing Argentine football culture is unforgettable—the passion, the chanting, the atmosphere is unlike anything else. If not, stadium tours are available.

Spend your afternoon in Palermo, Buenos Aires’ trendiest neighborhood. Palermo Soho features boutique shops, street art, and hip restaurants, while Palermo Hollywood has evolved into a dining and nightlife hub. The Bosques de Palermo (Palermo Woods) offers a peaceful escape with its rose garden, lakes, and planetarium.

Evening is reserved for tango. While tourist tango shows abound, consider a more authentic experience at a milonga (tango dance hall) where locals dance. Milongas like La Viruta or Salon Canning welcome newcomers, offering lessons before the social dancing begins. Watching skilled dancers navigate the floor with passionate precision is mesmerizing, and attempting a few steps yourself connects you to Argentine culture’s emotional core.

Alternatively, attend a professional tango show. Venues like Esquina Carlos Gardel or Piazzolla Tango offer dinner shows featuring world-class dancers and live orchestras. While less interactive, these shows showcase tango’s dramatic artistry at its finest.

Day 3: Flight to El Calafate – Gateway to Glaciers

Catch an early flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate in Argentine Patagonia (approximately 3 hours). The flight path offers stunning aerial views of the pampas gradually giving way to Patagonia’s steppe landscape, and on clear days, you might spot the Andes peaks in the distance.

City Characteristics

El Calafate is a small town of about 25,000 people perched on the southern shore of Lago Argentino, the country’s largest lake. Founded in 1927, it remained a remote frontier town until the 1990s, when growing interest in Patagonia’s glaciers transformed it into Argentina’s premier eco-tourism destination. The town’s name comes from the calafate bush, whose berries locals believe ensure your return to Patagonia if you eat them.

The town stretches along the lakeshore, with Avenida del Libertador General San Martín serving as the main street, lined with hotels, restaurants, tour agencies, and outdoor gear shops. Despite rapid growth and increasing tourism, El Calafate maintains a frontier town character—wind-blown, rugged, and close to nature. The climate is harsh: cold, dry, and extremely windy, especially in summer when gusts can reach 100 km/h. Temperatures range from 5-20°C in summer (December-February) to well below freezing in winter.

The town’s architecture is modest—mostly low-rise buildings designed to withstand the fierce Patagonian winds. What makes El Calafate special isn’t the town itself but its spectacular setting: surrounded by steppe landscape, backed by mountains, and providing access to Los Glaciares National Park and its magnificent ice fields.

Afternoon: Town Exploration

After checking into your hotel, spend the afternoon exploring town and acclimating to Patagonia’s climate and altitude. Visit the Glaciarium, an ice museum that provides excellent context for tomorrow’s glacier visit. Interactive exhibits explain glaciology, climate change, and Patagonia’s natural history. The museum includes an ice bar kept at -10°C where you can sip a whisky from a glass made of ice.

Walk along the lakefront, enjoying views of Lago Argentino’s turquoise waters and the distant mountains. The lake’s distinctive color comes from glacial flour—fine rock particles ground by glaciers and suspended in the water. As the sun sets, the light transforms the landscape, painting the mountains in shades of pink and orange.

For dinner, try Patagonian lamb (cordero patagónico), traditionally slow-roasted over an open fire. Local restaurants also serve excellent trout and king crab from nearby waters. El Calafate has surprisingly sophisticated dining for its size, with restaurants offering everything from traditional Argentine grills to creative fusion cuisine.

Day 4: Perito Moreno Glacier – Nature’s Masterpiece

Today brings one of Argentina’s—and South America’s—most spectacular natural wonders: Perito Moreno Glacier. This massive river of ice, part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, is one of the few glaciers in the world that’s actually advancing rather than retreating, making it a rare opportunity to witness glacial dynamics in action.

The Journey and Experience

The glacier lies 80 kilometers west of El Calafate, about 90 minutes by road through Patagonia’s dramatic steppe landscape. The route passes through Los Glaciares National Park, and as you approach, the Andes mountains rise dramatically on the horizon. Suddenly, through the southern beech forest, you catch your first glimpse of brilliant blue ice—an sight that never fails to take your breath away.

Perito Moreno is enormous: 250 square kilometers in area, 30 kilometers long, and with a front face (the terminus where it meets the water) that’s 5 kilometers wide and rises 74 meters above the lake surface. Below the waterline, the glacier extends another 170 meters deep. The ice is estimated to be 18,000 years old at its deepest layers.

What makes Perito Moreno special is its accessibility. A series of metal walkways and viewing platforms bring you face-to-face with the glacier, offering perspectives from below, at level, and above. You can stand just 500 meters from the towering ice wall, close enough to hear it groan, crack, and roar as it moves forward at about 2 meters per day.

The glacier’s color is mesmerizing—deep blues in the crevasses, brilliant white on the surface, and turquoise where ice meets water. This color comes from the extreme density of the ice, which absorbs all light wavelengths except blue. As you watch, chunks of ice—some the size of buildings—periodically calve from the face, crashing into the lake with thunderous roars and creating huge waves. Witnessing a major calving event is unforgettable and unpredictable—you might see dozens in an hour or wait hours for one spectacular collapse.

Ice Trekking (Optional)

For the adventurous, several companies offer ice trekking experiences on the glacier itself. After a boat ride across Lago Argentino and a brief forest walk, guides fit you with crampons and lead you onto the ice. Walking across the glacier’s surface is surreal—you’re surrounded by a landscape of ice sculptures, deep blue crevasses, melt pools, and ice formations shaped by wind and sun.

The “mini-trekking” option involves about 90 minutes on the ice and is suitable for most fitness levels. The “big ice” expedition includes 3-4 hours on the glacier, venturing deeper into the ice field and offering more spectacular scenery. Both experiences include a whisky on glacier ice—a Patagonian tradition.

Guides explain the glacier’s formation, movement, and the impact of climate change. While Perito Moreno is stable due to its unique geography and feeding pattern, they’ll point out signs of how climate change affects even this resilient giant. The experience is both exhilarating and humbling—you’re walking on ice that fell as snow thousands of years ago, on a glacier that pre-dates human civilization.

Afternoon at the Walkways

Even if you trek in the morning, spend the afternoon exploring the extensive walkway system. Different platforms offer unique perspectives, and the glacier looks different in changing light. Pack a lunch—there’s a restaurant at the visitor center, but eating while watching the glacier from the walkways is magical.

The walkways total about 4 kilometers and include numerous viewpoints. The lower walkways bring you close to the glacier’s face, while upper platforms provide panoramic views of the entire terminus and surrounding landscape. Each viewpoint offers different perspectives on the glacier’s scale and beauty.

Return to El Calafate in the evening, exhausted but exhilarated. Most visitors describe Perito Moreno as a highlight of their South American travels—it’s one of those rare places that exceeds even high expectations.

Day 5: El Chaltén – Trekking Paradise

Rise early for the scenic drive to El Chaltén, Argentina’s trekking capital (about 3 hours north of El Calafate). This journey ranks among South America’s most spectacular road trips, following Lago Argentino’s shore before climbing into mountain valleys with increasingly dramatic scenery.

City Characteristics

El Chaltén is Argentina’s youngest town, founded in 1985 in a territorial dispute with Chile. This tiny mountain village of fewer than 2,000 permanent residents sits at the base of the Fitz Roy massif, one of South America’s most iconic mountain ranges. The town’s name comes from the Tehuelche indigenous word for Fitz Roy, meaning “smoking mountain”—early inhabitants thought the mountain’s frequently cloud-wrapped summit was a volcano.

Unlike El Calafate’s tourism infrastructure, El Chaltén remains refreshingly unpretentious. The town consists of a few unpaved streets lined with small hotels, simple restaurants, gear shops, and homes. There’s no bank, no gas station, and until recently, no ATM. This frontier character is part of the appeal—El Chaltén exists solely to provide access to the surrounding mountains and glaciers.

The climate is even harsher than El Calafate. The wind is constant and fierce, often exceeding 100 km/h. Weather changes rapidly—sunny morning hikes can become challenging in afternoon snow squalls, even in summer. The town’s location in a valley means it’s often colder than surrounding areas, and the nearby glaciers influence local weather patterns.

Despite its remoteness, El Chaltén has developed a sophisticated trekking culture. The Chilean beer flows freely in brewpubs, international trekkers share stories in hostel common rooms, and local guides lead expeditions into the backcountry. There’s a camaraderie among visitors—everyone’s there for the mountains, and that shared purpose creates community.

Trekking Options

El Chaltén sits within Los Glaciares National Park, and numerous trails depart directly from town. No guides are necessary—trails are well-marked and well-traveled. Stop at the National Park office upon arrival for trail maps, current conditions, and weather forecasts.

Laguna de los Tres (Fitz Roy Base Camp): This is the classic El Chaltén trek. The trail climbs through southern beech forest to a spectacular mountain lagoon at the base of Monte Fitz Roy (3,405 meters). The final approach involves a steep climb of about 400 meters over loose scree, but the view from the top is worth every step. The granite spires of Fitz Roy and its satellites (Poincenot, Rafaél, Saint-Exupéry) rise directly behind the milky turquoise lagoon, creating one of South America’s most photographed scenes.

The trail is 20 kilometers round trip with 800 meters elevation gain, taking 8-10 hours total. Start early—not only to beat afternoon weather, but to catch sunrise illuminating Fitz Roy’s peaks in alpenglow. Many trekkers leave town at 4-5 AM with headlamps to reach the lagoon by sunrise. The sight of the granite towers glowing pink and orange in first light is legendary.

Laguna Torre: A more moderate alternative leads to a lagoon at the base of Cerro Torre, another spectacular granite needle often considered one of the world’s most difficult climbs. This 18-kilometer round-trip trail is less strenuous than Fitz Roy, following the Fitz Roy River valley through forests and open terrain. The lagoon is often filled with icebergs calved from the Torre Glacier, and on clear days, Cerro Torre’s impossibly steep spire rises above.

Combination Trek: Strong hikers can combine both trails in a single day (about 12-14 hours and 35 kilometers), starting with Laguna Torre at sunrise, continuing to Laguna de los Tres, and returning via the Piedra del Fraile route. This is exhausting but rewarding, showcasing the area’s best scenery in one epic day.

Evening in El Chaltén

After your trek, celebrate with a beer at one of El Chaltén’s brewpubs. Both Cerveceria Chaltén and Patagonia Rebels produce excellent craft beers—perfect for tired legs and trail stories. The town’s restaurants serve hearty meals suited to hikers’ appetites: thick steaks, pasta dishes, stews, and warming soups.

Watch the sunset paint Fitz Roy’s peaks from town. The mountains dominate the skyline, visible from almost everywhere in El Chaltén, and evening light creates spectacular effects on the granite faces.

Day 6: Return to El Calafate and Optional Activities

Return to El Calafate, arriving by early afternoon. Use the remainder of the day for optional activities or rest after yesterday’s trekking.

Optional Activities

Glacier Boat Tour: Several companies offer boat trips on Lago Argentino, cruising among icebergs and approaching glacier faces from the water. The “Ríos de Hielo” (Ice Rivers) tour visits Upsala Glacier and Spegazzini Glacier, both larger than Perito Moreno but less accessible. The full-day trip includes lunch on board and provides a different perspective on the massive ice fields.

Estancia Visit: Experience Patagonian ranch culture at a traditional estancia (ranch). These tours include demonstrations of gaucho skills like sheep shearing and horseback riding, traditional lamb asado (barbecue), and often opportunities to explore the estancia’s land on horseback or on foot. Estancia Cristina and Nibepo Aike are popular options, offering insight into Patagonian rural life.

Horseback Riding: Several operators offer horseback rides through the steppe landscape surrounding El Calafate. Rides range from two hours to full days, often including visits to viewpoints over Lago Argentino. Riding through Patagonia on horseback connects you to gaucho traditions and offers a peaceful way to experience the landscape.

Rest and Relaxation: After several active days, you might choose to relax. Walk the lakefront, browse artisan shops for souvenirs (Patagonian wool products, mate gourds, local crafts), or simply enjoy a long lunch with Patagonian lamb and wine while watching the lake’s changing colors.

Culinary Experience

El Calafate has excellent restaurants deserving of a proper dinner. La Zaina serves creative Patagonian cuisine, Casimiro Biguá offers brewery atmosphere and king crab dishes, while Pura Vida provides upscale fusion cuisine. Many restaurants feature locally-raised lamb, guanaco (wild camelid), Patagonian trout, and king crab from nearby waters.

Pair your meal with Argentine wine. While Mendoza dominates Argentine wine production, several excellent wines come from Patagonia’s emerging wine regions, particularly Neuquén and Río Negro provinces. The extreme climate produces distinctive, elegant wines—especially Pinot Noir and Malbec.

Day 7: Return to Buenos Aires – Final Impressions

Catch a morning flight back to Buenos Aires (most flights depart early to mid-morning). If your international departure is the same day, ensure adequate connection time—at least 3-4 hours between flights is recommended, as Patagonian flights can be delayed by weather.

Final Hours in Buenos Aires

If you have afternoon or evening hours in Buenos Aires before your departure, there are several options depending on your flight time:

Airport Layover: Ezeiza International Airport has improved its facilities with shops, restaurants, and even spa services. However, it’s still recommended to explore the city if time permits.

Quick City Return: If you have 5-6 hours, consider a taxi into the city (about 45 minutes-1 hour depending on traffic). Store luggage at your morning hotel or at the airport, then have a final lunch in Palermo or San Telmo. Visit one last museum, buy final souvenirs, or simply absorb Buenos Aires’ atmosphere over coffee and medialunas (Argentine croissants) at a traditional café.

Shopping: Pick up last-minute souvenirs: leather goods (Argentina has exceptional leather craftsmanship), dulce de leche products, Argentine wine, yerba mate and gourds, alfajores (cookie sandwiches filled with dulce de leche), or tango music recordings. San Telmo and Palermo Soho have excellent artisan shops.

Reflections on Argentina

As you depart, you’ll likely feel the characteristic Argentine pull—a desire to return and explore more of this vast, diverse country. In seven days, you’ve only scratched the surface. You haven’t experienced the wine country of Mendoza, the northwestern desert landscapes of Salta, the penguin colonies of Peninsula Valdés, the Welsh tea rooms of Chubut, the Jesuit missions of Corrientes, or the thundering Iguazú Falls in the subtropical north.

Yet in your week, you’ve experienced Argentina’s essence—the sophistication of Buenos Aires, the raw power of Patagonian glaciers, the humbling scale of southern mountains, the warmth of Argentine hospitality, and the country’s deep connection to both its European heritage and its wild, untamed landscapes. You’ve tasted incredible beef, felt Patagonian wind, heard tango music, and stood before ancient ice. These experiences form an indelible introduction to Argentina, a country that rewards repeated visits and deep exploration.

Extending Your Visit

Iguazú Falls (2-3 days): The world’s largest waterfall system straddles the Argentina-Brazil border. The falls are massive—275 individual cascades spanning nearly 3 kilometers. The Argentine side offers closer approaches and walkways that bring you face-to-face with the falling water.

Mendoza (3-4 days): Argentina’s wine capital sits at the base of the Andes. Tour world-class wineries, enjoy gourmet dining, and potentially climb Aconcagua (6,961 meters), the Americas’ highest peak. The city combines wine culture with mountain adventure.

Salta and Northwest (4-5 days): Argentina’s colonial northwest offers dramatic desert landscapes, indigenous culture, high-altitude wine regions, and colorful mountain formations. The Train to the Clouds climbs to 4,220 meters elevation.

Peninsula Valdés (2-3 days): This Atlantic Peninsula is one of the world’s best wildlife watching destinations. See southern right whales (June-December), orcas (February-April), penguins, elephant seals, and sea lions in their natural habitat.

Ushuaia (2-3 days): The world’s southernmost city offers Tierra del Fuego National Park, Beagle Channel boat trips, and a distinctive end-of-the-world atmosphere. It’s also the departure point for Antarctic cruises.